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Drysider Cascades: Washington's Lake Wenatchee State Park

Patrick Hannigan

Each winter, huge storms spin like vast whirlpools off the North Pacific and crash into Washington State's Cascade mountain range. However; while western Washington is known for its ceaseless rain and gray skies, just east of the Cascade crest sun and snow prevails.

Sheltered by a rugged wall of 7,000 to 9,000 foot peaks, Lake Wenatchee State Park lies in the protected lee of the North Cascades. While only 100 miles from Seattle, the weather is dramatically different. Here, on the east side of the mountains, snowstorms interspersed with periods of bright winter sunshine are the rule rather than the exception. Locals, who sometimes call themselves" Drysiders," jokingly refer to the soggy west side of the state as the "Wetside."

Because of its location in Cascade rain shadow, Lake Wenatchee receives less than half the precipitation of the range's western slope.

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Still, in an average year, that adds up to an impressive 150 inches of snow. Because the mountains shield the park from warm ocean air, snow tends to fall as light, dry powder of skier's dreams.

The result is a small jewel of a park located in a unique climactic niche perfectly suited for cross country skiers. Combine favorable weather conditions with a quality groomed trail system, a spectacular setting, convenient access and a wealth of nearby lodging and entertainment options-and it's easy to understand why cross county skiers are discovering this little paradise-like corner. While many cross country destinations in the country receive plenty of good snow, few can match the natural beauty of Lake Wenatchee and the surrounding area.

Wenatchee is a Native American word meaning "great opening out of the mountains." When the glaciers retreated 10,000 years ago, they left behind a broad U-shaped valley carved from granite bedrock. That valley eventually filled with a natural lake some five miles long and one mile wide.

Lake Wenatchee State Park, which covers nearly 500 acres, sits at the east end of the lake, where it straddles the cold clear outflow of the Wenatchee River. Many of its cross country trails follow the 12,623 feet of lake and river frontage in the park. Winding in and out of tall ponderosa pine and grand fir forests, the trails connect natural viewpoints that afford vistas to the west and north, where jagged ice-shrouded Cascade peaks frame the deep blue lake.

While certainly not huge by national standards, the park's more than 25 miles of groomed cross country trails attract skiers who appreciate its beautiful setting, the wide variety of accessible terrain and the abundant wildlife watching opportunities. The snowshoe trails and sledding hill add to its appeal for families by offering something to entertain everyone.

The park is a diverse whole composed of three distinct parts, each with its own character and unique qualities. Trails are typically 12 feet wide, groomed with one or two tracks and a skating lane.

The south park area is the most popular among cross country enthusiasts, in part because of the varied nature of the trail options. Here, on the south side of the Wenatchee River, approximately 10 miles of trails traverse state park, private and national forest land. Wooded valley trails tend to follow streams and lakeshore over flat or gently rolling hills.

Skiers can also continue up via easy to moderate trails to the nearby Kahler Glen Golf Course. The private golf course maintains this section of groomed trail cooperatively with the state park. Skiers visiting the park are welcome to utilize the trails, which seamlessly connect areas of public and private land.

Many skiers choose to stop by the golf course clubhouse for a hot drink before continuing along the trails winding through the course. While this part of the trail system is the least wild, skiers who appreciate open sunny trails will find this area enjoyable. Many fine homes constructed of huge logs and river rock will also interest those with an eye for architectural style and detail.

Advanced or adventurous skiers can continue up from here to the top of Nason Ridge. Rated "more difficulty' the Nason Mop includes an elevation gain of 1,300 feet. Those who make the climb will be rewarded with an eagle's eye perspective on Lake Wenatchee, a panoramic view of the wild craggy country stretching in every direction--and of course a thrilling descent back into the valley.

A literal stone's throw across the Wenatchee River from the south park, the north park provides a quieter, less traveled alternative. This area even feels a little wilder. Groomed four times weekly, miles of trails offer both classic and skate skiing.

One scenic option-the Lakeshore Loop trail-travels through hushed forests, then bursts out onto an open beach with up-lake views. Here, huge gnarled silver driftwood trees stack weathered like sticks among angular white granite boulders. From this headland, Emerald Island lurks just offshore. Wind-shaped bonsai-like trees sprout improbably from the tiny rocky island--perhaps the most photographed feature in the park. Often bald eagles and osprey sit patiently in the island's trees, scanning the lake for trout or Kokanee salmon.

The third component of the Lake Wenatchee trail system is Chiwawa Sno-Park--a five-mile loop called the "See and Ski" trail. Exceptionally scenic, the trail includes a track for classic skiing and a skating lane. The route follows a ridge overlooking undisturbed riparian habitat along the Wenatchee River's broad meanderings. Observant skiers may see beaver, deer, raptors, and waterfowl--occasionally even bobcat or cougar tracks!

Towering over this trail, huge ponderosas predate western settlement. Their massive cinnamon-colored trunks and fluorescent green witch's hair lichen-draped boughs provide dramatic contrast to the white snow and blue sky.

While dogs are not allowed on groomed trails in the park, the Chiwawa area also has two un-groomed trails where canines are welcome: the Squirrel Run trail and the Flying Loop. The Flying Loop is a five-mile round-trip that ascends 600 feet and is rated "most difficult." Once again, elevation gain results in great views of the environs.

For access to all ski trails from December to March, Sno-Park Permits are required and fees are assessed per vehicle. An $8 one-day parking pass and $40 annual pass are available at park headquarters or online. Private vendors--like the one of two grocery stores just outside the park entrance--sell the permits with an added minimal surcharge.

Snow-Park permits also allow visitors to access the park's snowshoe trail system and sledding hill. Each area of the park offers dedicated snowshoe trails to keep the ski trails intact. One trail in the south park guides snowshoers with interpretive signs explaining the park's ecology. The signs help visitors identify the many animal tracks they are likely to see in the area.

Located in the south park, the sledding hill is a popular diversion from cross country skiing. Families with small children especially find it attractive. Away from car traffic, the hill has nice, gentle runouts.

For accommodations, visitors have choices ranging from the rustic to the elegant. Year-round camping is available right in the heart of the trail system for those intrepid individuals who care to snow camp. Park employees keep an area of picnic tables, shelters and fire pits dug out through the winter. Nearby, heated bathrooms and showers offer a few creature comforts. RV parking is also available in winter.

Of course, winter camping isn't everyone's idea of a vacation. For those who like to spend their evenings on a comfy couch in front of a roaring fire, numerous vacation cabins dot the area for nightly, weekend or holiday rentals.

While a couple small grocery stores, a gas station and a restaurant or two exist outside Lake Wenatchee State Park, the nearest real town is Leavenworth, some 20 miles east. Four decades ago, the sleepy town reinvented itself as "Washington's Bavarian Village" Since then, the town bustles in the eastern Cascade foothills becoming a destination in its own right, drawing visitors from all over the world.

All winter, the snow-draped Bavarian-style town glows with thousands of white Christmas lights. Dozens of lodging, dining, shopping and entertainment options make Leavenworth a popular home base for those visiting the state park. Winter events include the Bavarian Ice Fest in January and numerous cross country ski events, such as the annual "Chicks on Sticks" Nordic race each February.

In Washington, be sure to visit the "Dryside" of the Cascades. Any preconceptions of the state as eternally shrouded in clouds will surely dissipate as you ski along under sunny skies as blue as Lake Wenatchee.

Contacts:

* Lake Wenatchee State Park ., 360/902-8844

* Leavenworth Chamber of Commerce .org, 509/548-5807.

Patrick Hannigan is a freelance writer who lives in Twisp, Washington.

 
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