Famous Costa Ricans Article

When I started my design job at VT, my then-fiancee, Laura, and I were eagerly planning our honeymoon to Costa Rica. It's a beautiful land, exemplified by the national saying, "Pura vida"--a catchall phrase that means "the good life"--because when you're in Costa Rica, you really are living.

After hearing of our honeymoon plans, the editorial staff encouraged me to bring back some Costa Rican recipes to share. In the capital city, San Jose, you can find almost any cuisine, from traditional to contemporary, local to international. Eighty percent of Costa Rica's population--affectionately known as "Tico"--are of Spanish origin. Traditional "tica" dishes reflect the country's history of European colonization coupled with the produce native to Central America. Travelers will find this culinary collaboration throughout Central America. Over the last century, Costa Ricans have begun to reestablish their national culture. In areas such as Limon on the east coast, the cooking has an Afro-Caribbean flavor, as in Patacones and Spicy Bean Dip.

No matter where you travel in Costa Pica, there are plenty of opportunities to sample the wares of the many street vendors selling fruits, vegetables, and packaged and prepared foods. I liked drinking water from young chilled coconuts served with a straw.

Destination Spots

When not dining on delectable native fare, you'll want to spend time experiencing Costa Rica's natural resources. Whether you choose the Caribbean or the Pacific Ocean beach areas, or the volcanoes or the rain forests, you'll find lots of interesting places to visit. We selected remote eco-tourist resorts, and we found that their smaller size made it easy for our hosts to meet our vegetarian needs. Our hosts explained that it is common for their guests to request special diets, especially those suffering from food allergies, so they were very accommodating and made our experience a pleasurable one. We also found that the meals prepared at each of our destinations depended upon the background and experience of the head chef--so we were fortunate to taste dishes from Spain, Belgium, Venezuela and the United States--all with a Costa Rican twist.

As you enjoy these recipes, you may find yourself dreaming of some wild and wonderful destination spot, where you can hear tranquil lapping waves accompanied by the distant roar of breakers on an offshore coral reef in the Caribbean--or the exotic call of a howler monkey on a hilltop overlooking Gulfo Dulce as the sun sets. Ah, !pura vida!

With recipes in hand--courtesy of Liesel Flashenberg, Through the Kitchen Door and John Lovell from Rainbow Adventures--Laura and I treated our good friends Rob and Bev Steele and their twins Aden and Zoe to a home-cooked taste of the "Rich Coast," some of Costa Rica's more traditional "tica" dishes, !Buen provecho! Enjoy your meal!

Patacones with Spicy Bean Dip

SERVES 4

Serve the patacones as an appetizer with the
Spicy Bean Dip.

Patacones

2 green plantains
Vegetable oil for deep-frying, about
 3 cups
Salt to taste

Spicy Bean Dip

2 Tbs. vegetable oil
1/2 large onion, diced
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 red or green chiles, sliced, or to taste
1/2 tsp. ground cumin
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
 to taste
Sprig fresh rosemary, chopped
2 cups cooked beans, such as black
 turtle or pinto beans
1/2 cup chopped cilantro
1/4 cup sour cream for garnish

1. To make Patacaones: Score plantains
lengthwise, peel, cut into discs about 1/2-inch
thick and set aside.

2. Heat oil in deep saucepan or large skillet.
When hot, gently place several plantain
slices into pan, and fry, turning occasionally,
until golden. Remove from oil, and drain
on paper towels.

3. Let cool for 5 minutes, and, using cleaver,
press pieces until flat. Repeat with all plantains.
Reheat oil in skillet, and refry all plantain
pieces until slightly browned. Remove
from heat, drain on paper towels and sprinkle
with salt before serving. Set aside.

4. To make Spicy Bean Dip: Heat oil in large
skillet over medium heat. When very hot,
add onions, and saute until translucent, about
5 minutes. Add garlic and chiles, and saute 2
minutes. Add cumin, salt, black pepper, rosemary
and beans. Cook until heated through,
about 5 minutes. Remove from heat. Spoon
mixture into food processor, adding water as
needed to process. Add cilantro, and puree
until smooth. Spoon into serving dish, top
with sour cream and serve hot.

PER SERVING OF PATACONES: 150 CAL; 1G
PROT; 5G TOTAL FAT (0G SAT. FAT); 29G CARB;
0MG CHOL; 0MG SOD; 2G FIBER; 5G SUGARS

PER SERVING OF SPICY BEAN DIP: 230 CAL;
9G PROT; 11G TOTAL FAT ( SAT. FAT);
26G CARB; 5MG CHOL; 15MG SOD; 9G
FIBER; 4G SUGARS

Wine Suggestions

There are many wine-producing countries that
offer wine to pair with this dip. Try drinking
rustic, earthy reds from France, Italy or Spain.

Avocado Salsa

SERVES 8 TO 10

Typical Costa Rican meals start with an
assortment of appetizers: picadillos, or
mixtures, of cooked, minced vegetables;
tubers served with small tortillas; and
dips presented with crispy tortilla chips.

Few Costa Ricans would add jalapenos
since, in general, Costa Rican food is
mild--but some like it hot such as the
Costa Ricans living along the Caribbean
coast, who love hot habanero chiles. You
can make the salsa ahead, and add the
avocado and cilantro just before serving.

1/2 cup finely chopped onion
3 cups seeded and finely diced tomato
1 to 2 cloves garlic, minced or crushed
1/2 large sweet red pepper, finely diced
1 to 2 tsp. finely chopped jalapeno to
 taste, optional
1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 tsp. brown sugar
Salt to taste
2 ripe avocados, peeled and diced
2 to 3 Tbs. chopped fresh cilantro
 leaves

1. Combine all ingredients except avocados
and cilantro in medium-sized bowl, and
stir gently. Set aside, and chill, if desired.

2. To serve, combine avocado and cilantro,
and stir in gently with other salsa ingredients
to mix well. Pass with crisp tortilla chips.

PER SERVING: 90 CAL; 1G PROT; 6G TOTAL
FAT (1G SAT. FAT); 8G CARB; 0MG CHOL;
10MG SOD; 3G FIBER; 3G SUGARS

Gallo Pinto

SERVES 6

Natives say there are as many recipes for
Gallo Pinto as there are Costa Ricans. This
rice-and-beans dish, which translates as
"spotted rooster" is eaten with gusto by
the majority of the population every single
day--often for breakfast--and there are
those who eat it at every meal. Many Costa
Ricans add several generous dashes of Salsa
Lizano, probably only available in Costa
Rica, although vegetarian Worcestershire
sauce is a reasonable facsimile. There is a
famous saying, "Wherever there is a Costa
Rican, there is peace," but in Costa Rica,
billboards proclaim, "Wherever there is a
Costa Rican, there is Salsa Lizano."

2 to 3 Tbs. canola or soybean oil
1 medium-sized onion, peeled and
 finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
3 cups cooked white rice
2 cups cooked black beans, drained,
 rinsed and liquid reserved
1 tsp. ground cumin
1 tsp. ground coriander
1/2 tsp. ground ginger
2 to 3 Tbs. Salsa Lizano, or
 vegetarian Worcestershire sauce
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
 to taste

1. Heat oil in large skillet over medium
heat, and add onion. When onion starts to
turn color, add garlic, and saute for about
5 minutes, or until onion is golden.

2. Stir in rice, beans and seasonings, combining
well. Add 1/4 to 1/2 cup liquid from
canned beans, if desired, to make the rice
"dirty" Cook until heated through, and
add salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot.

PER SERVING: 260 CAL; 8G PROT; 5G TOTAL
FAT (0G SAT. FAT); 44G CARB; 0MG CHOL;
20MG SOD; 6G FIBER; 4G SUGARS

Wine Suggestions

A white wine that would pair with the earthiness
of the beans, spices and allium, as well as
with the flair of the Salsa Lizano, would be
one made from the Spanish variety called
Albarino. Try Albarino Martin Codax.

Campesino Salad

SERVES 6
30 MINUTES OR LESS

This tropical slaw is often served both on its
own and as an addition to tortillas filled with
rice, beans, grated cheese and a fresh salsa.
You may make this several hours ahead.

1/2 medium-sized head of cabbage,
 sliced thinly as for coleslaw
2 carrots, peeled and grated
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves
1/2 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice,
 or more to taste
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
 to taste

Combine all ingredients, adjust seasonings,
place in large covered serving bowl and
refrigerate until chilled.

PER SERVING: 35 CAL; 1G PROT; 0G TOTAL
FAT (0G SAT. FAT); 8G CARB; 0MG CHOL;
20MG SOD; 2G FIBER; 4G SUGARS

Rice with Hearts of Palm

SERVES 8

Hearts of palm, or palmitos, are grown on
large plantations in the subtropical areas
of Costa Rica. Fresh hearts of palm taste
exquisite, but the canned version is an
adequate substitute.

4 cups cooked white rice
1 cup sour cream
2 cups grated mild cheese such as
 Monterey Jack
1 cup tomato sauce
2 cups thinly sliced or diced hearts
 of palm
2 to 3 Tbs. butter

1. Preheat oven to 375F. Grease 3-qt.
ovenproof baking dish.

2. Layer all ingredients, starting with rice,
1/2 cup sour cream in dabs, 1 cup cheese,
1/2 cup tomato sauce and 1 cup hearts of
palm. Repeat until all ingredients are used
up. Dot top with butter.

3. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, or until cheese
melts. Remove from oven, and serve hot.

PER SERVING: 330 CAL; 11G PROT; 18G TOTAL
FAT (11G SAT. FAT); 32G CARB; 45MG
CHOL; 360MG SOD; 2G FIBER; 0G SUGARS

Savory Plantain Flan with Rich
Tomato Sauce

SERVES 8 TO 10

In Costa Rica, mature plantains, or platanos,
are often served as a side dish and are
usually very sweet. The following recipe,
however, is a savory alternative. This is
attractive when topped with a warmed
tomato sauce made with plum tomatoes,
a very typical Costa Rican seasoning.

Savory Plantain Flan

8 ripe medium-sized plantains,
 unpeeled, each cut in three pieces
4 egg yolks
4 whole large eggs
2 cups milk
2 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. ground white pepper
1/2 tsp. ground nutmeg
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup grated mild cheese
2 Tbs. chopped fresh cilantro leaves
1 1/2 cups tomato sauce, optional

Rich Tomato Sauce

2 Tbs. vegetable oil
1 cup chopped onion
5 cloves garlic, chopped
2 lb. ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded
 and diced
2 Tbs. combined dried herbs,
 or 4 Tbs. fresh herbs, such as
 basil, oregano or parsley
1/2 cup red wine
2 to 3 Tbs. olive oil
2 Tbs. tamari soy sauce, optional
2 tsp. salt
1 Tbs. sugar
1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup tomato paste
2 cups canned diced tomatoes
 with juice

1. Preheat oven to 325F. Spray with nonstick
cooking spray 3-qt. heatproof, glass
baking dish, a 9x13-inch rectangular baking
pan or 7 heatproof, 1-cup (10-oz.) custard
cups or ceramic ramekins.

2. To make Savory Plantain Flan: Place unpeeled
plantains in large stockpot filled with
water, and bring to a boil over medium-high
heat. Cook until soft, testing for doneness
with tines of fork, for about 25 minutes.
Remove from heat, drain and cool slightly.

3. Combine yolks, eggs and milk in separate
bowl, and beat well. When cool enough to
handle, peel and slice plantains, and place
pieces in mixing bowl. Using balloon whisk,
beat plantains until mashed, and add eggmilk
mixture, salt, pepper and nutmeg. Beat
at high, slowly adding cream. When mixture
is well creamed, mix in grated cheese and
cilantro. Pour mixture into baking dish, or
scoop into custard cups or ramekins. Line
large baking pan with dish towel, place filled
baking dish, baking pan or custard cups
onto towel and place in oven. Fill bottom
pan with enough hot water to reach
halfway up sides of baking dish.

4. Bake for 30 to 45 minutes, depending
on size of baking dish, or until knife
inserted in center comes out clean. Center
may still be soft but will firm when out of
oven. Remove from oven, top with tomato
sauce, if using, and serve hot.

5. To make Rich Tomato Sauce: Heat oil in
large stockpot over medium heat. Saute
onions and garlic until onions are transparent,
stirring often to prevent burning.

6. Add remaining ingredients, and reduce
heat to medium-low. Cover, and cook for
at least 1 hour, stirring occasionally. Adjust
seasonings, and remove from heat.

PER SERVING OF SAVORY PLANTAIN FLAN:
360 CAL; 9G PROT; 16G TOTAL FAT (8G SAT.
FAT); 49G CARB; 210MG CHOL; 560MG SOD;
3G FIBER; 12G SUGARS

PER SERVING OF RICH TOMATO SAUCE: 110
CAL; 2G PROT; 6G TOTAL FAT ( SAT.
FAT); 13G CARB; 0MG CHOL; 710MG SOD;
2G FIBER; 6G SUGARS

Wine Suggestions

There are many recipes from around the
world that unite creamy/eggy/cheesey dishes
with tangy tomato sauce, such as enchiladas,
manicotti, grits, and, of course, the classic
grilled cheese and tomato sandwich. Choose
a wine that stands up to the tomatoes but
that won't overpower the tender flan. A
good choice would be an Italian wine such as
Taurino Salice Salentino.

Queque Seco

SERVES 8

This so-called dry cake is really a rich rum-and-raisin
pound cake, a typical dessert in
Costa Rica.

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter,
 room temperature
1 cup granulated sugar
6 large eggs, separated
2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
4 tsp. baking powder
1/4 tsp. salt
1 tsp. vanilla extract
3/4 cup fresh orange juice
1/2 cup dark rum
1 cup raisins soaked in warm water

1. Preheat oven to 350F Generously butter
and dust with flour 10-inch nonstick
Bundt pan, and set aside.

2. Place butter in large mixing bowl, and
beat until creamy. Slowly beat in sugar a little
at a time. Add egg yolks one at a time,
beating well after each addition and until
mixture is creamy. Add flour, baking powder
and salt alternately with vanilla, orange juice
and rum. Drain raisins, and fold into batter.

3. Beat egg whites until stiff in separate
bowl. Fold into batter, and, when smooth,
scoop into Bundt pan.

4. Bake about 1 hour, or until top of cake
is lightly browned and toothpick inserted
in center comes out clean. Remove from
oven, cool on rack for 5 minutes and invert
cake onto rack to cool thoroughly.

5. To serve, place cake on serving dish,
sprinkle with confectioners' sugar and
complement cake, if desired, with sliced
tropical fruits such as sliced mangos,
bananas, pineapple and papayas.

PER SERVING: 600 CAL; 10G PROT; 27G TO-TAL
FAT (15G SAT. FAT); 73G CARB; 220MG
CHOL; 370MG SOD; 2G FIBER; 41G SUGARS

Melange

SERVES 2 30 MINUTES OR LESS

Costa Rica is deservedly known for its
fresh fruit drinks served everywhere such
as the favorite melange.

1/2 ripe cantaloupe, cut in 1-inch
 pieces plus extra for garnish
2 cups freshly squeezed orange juice
Sugar to taste
5 to 6 ice cubes

Place all ingredients in a blender, and purge.
Serve in tall glasses with cantaloupe spear
decorating rim of each glass.

PER SERVING: 80 CAL; 1G PROT; 0G TOTAL
FAT (0G SAT, FAT); 19G CARB; 0MG CHOL;
15MG SOD; < 1G FIBER; 18G SUGARS

RELATED ARTICLE: The honeymooners.

I would recommend our travel itinerary to anyone, although making a small effort online or scanning a travel book will also open a plethora of options for the would-be traveler. Any international flight will take you into San Jose, and from there you can travel by bus, rental car, taxi or plane. Domestic flights from San Jose are time savers and fairly inexpensive, and seeing the landscape through the plane's windows is spectacular. Our destinations were two eco-lodges--the El Remanso Rainforest Beach Lodge on the Osa Peninsula and Rainbow Adventures on the mainland, a few miles north of Golfito. Both are located in the southwest corner of Costa Rica--in the Golfo Dulce region, which Costa Ricans call "the last frontier of Costa Rica"--easily reached by air via Golfito or Puerto Jimenez.

El Remanso is owned and operated by Joel and Belen Stewart. To get to the eco-lodge from the nearest town, Puerto Jimenez, hail a 4-wheel-drive taxi, and head west of town on a scenic, yet rough, dirt road. You will pass fields and farms, travel through jungles--even ford small streams--then eventually turn into a narrowly cut driveway leading through the vegetation. Eventually the jungle opens to a beautifully landscaped yard with several cabins, a kitchen building with a dining terrace and the Stewarts' home. From there, the land slowly descends to a remote beach on the Pacific Ocean. The 140-acre site--which is located in the Osa NationalWildlife Refuge--is a self-contained watershed with its own micro hydroelectric system. The Stewarts, like most Costa Ricans, are conscientious about their footprint on the land they inhabit, and they have found clever ways to make that impact as light as possible. For example, each building has a small built-in moat with gravity-fed running water, which provides a barrier to lumber-damaging and guest-annoying crawling insects.

Activities at El Remanso include nature hikes, bird-watching, horseback-riding, turtle releases and specialty "canopy tours," which include waterfall-repelling, zip-line tours and tree-climbing. The canopy of the rain forest is home to wildlife that is not visible from the ground, so Joel's safe yet exhilarating canopy tours literally offer a bird's-eye view to an otherwise unseen part of the rain forest.

But you don't have to climb a tree to see astounding wildlife--we saw three species of monkeys, scarlet macaws, toucans, an anteater, a sloth and several species of butterflies.

Rainbow Adventures, run by John Lovell, is equally wonderful. Its Web site proclaims it has an "unparalleled proximity to nature," and I wholeheartedly agree. This eco-lodge, a boat ride from Golfito or Puerto Jimenez, sits on the shore of Golfo Dulce and is bordered by the Corcovado National Park expansion. The calm gulf waters here offer a swimmer-friendly experience--even for dolphins. On one moonless, predawn boat ride, when the phosphorescence in the gulf was spectacular, a speeding dolphin swam alongside, then under the boat, leaving a brilliant, glowing wake in the water. The trails around the lodge provide several options for hikers--long or short, easy or rigorous. Other activities include snorkeling, scuba diving, kayaking, bird-watching and a botanical gardens tour at the nearby Casa de Orquideas, home to over 100 varieties of orchids and other tropical flowers and plants.

Rainbow Adventures has several bedrooms in the main lodge, including a honeymoon suite, and a few small, private cabinas. The view of the Gulf and distant Osa Peninsula, especially at sunset, is breathtaking.

To learn more or contact either of these eco-establishments, visit them online at .com and .com. Tell them Abe and Laura sent you. Better yet, take us with you--please.