Conchas Chinas Puerto Vallarta Article

Special to the Herald

PUERTO VALLARTA, Mexico - Whether you are looking for romance or just to get out of town, this is the place to be. In this Mexican resort, visitors will find pale sand beaches, shark-free surf and reliable sunshine - all at decent prices. The city has good drinking water, safe streets and everywhere the aura of welcoming.

There was also considerable buzz generated by the scandal of Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, both married to others and caught trysting here. And fans of the old TV show "The Love Boat" will remember the town as a frequently mentioned port of call.

Today, the population of Puerto Vallarta is 300,000, including the 5,000 Americans who own property in town.

Puerto Vallarta is composed of an old section and a new one, divided by the Cuale River but joined by a bridge. Near the Centro is El Malecon, a boulevard along the shore of Banderos Bay. Local artists have created the large pieces that are displayed along this stretch, against the backdrop of sky and glistening sea. This lovers' dream of a walkway is popular at sunset, and photographers are everywhere - snapping the large stone seahorse, symbol of the city, or the children who clamber other user-friendly statuary.

Local artists' work also can be seen at studios and galleries. Of particular interest is the Galeria EM, where world-class works in glass are manufactured and displayed, and Galeria Dante, with its large selection of sculpture from Mexico and around the world. Sergio Bustamente, considered one of the leading artists of Mexico, has his own gallery, and the studio of American transplant Richard Baker, a professional watercolorist, is worth a visit. Check a local events calendar for the Art Walk, a festive occasion in which galleries are open and cocktails are served. It takes place every few weeks in the old town near the main square.

This is an easy city to get around. Buses run frequently, the fare is four pesos - about 50 cents - and there's much to see. Conchas Chinas is where the rich have their eye-popping estates, all coconut- white stucco with Moorish arches, domes and wrought-iron touches, and surrounded by paper and mango trees, bougainvillea and copa de oro, flowers that really do glow like gold, as the name implies.

On the Federal Road 200, look out at the water and see Los Arcos, a huge rock formation through which boats and adventurous swimmers can maneuver. Stop at Le Kliff, a restaurant that is popular with tourists, and for a good reason: It is built like a multilevel fantasy of wood, bamboo and terra cotta, has travel-brochure views and is so lush with vegetation there's hardly room for chairs and tables.

Dining in Puerto Vallarta can be an iffy experience, but there are some sure bets. Cafe Des Artistes is five-star French with a plant- kingdom ambience, top food and top prices (entrees range from $20 to $35 and there is a tasting menu at $76). For a more modest tab and local seafood, head for Puerto Nuevo, or, for a typical Mexican meal, try Las Palomas or La Chata, which offers 85 kinds of chili. Try the mole here with or without tequila. That ubiquitous drink is produced in the town of Tequila, but at Aqui es Jalixco, in nearby Pitillal, you also can learn everything you ever wanted to know about tequila through demonstrations and tastings, which are free.

Between meals, there's much to do. Predictably, there are water sports - off-boat parasailing, deep-sea and sport fishing, water- skiing - and no end of beaches. Water taxis are available for island hops; a popular way to spend a few hours is whale watching. There are the usual land sports, such as tennis and golf, and the more exotic: botanical trail rides, hot-air ballooning and, for about $50 a shot, bungee jumping.

At the end of the day, a stop at the spa can soothe those aching muscles. The Piedra Viva Spa at the Hacienda Hotel has something called "The Ritual," a treatment involving a sweat lodge, mud bath, massage and primal music.

After treatment, one is likely to feel like floating out of the place, which looks a bit like a Tarzan movie set complete with palapa- covered huts and a poetic little brook. Spa fans I encountered came away wildly enthusiastic about the unique three-hour event, calling it a spiritual experience.

For more conservative spa activity, the Premiere Hotel offers a variety of hydrotherapies, scrubs and body treatments. And while there are hotels in all price ranges in Puerto Vallarta, the Premiere is also a gem of a new hotel, well-situated on the beach and near town, and a good bet for anyone demanding not only a spa but dramatic architecture, indoor and outdoor private whirlpools and seaside glamour.

Pack lightly, as the only jackets to be seen here are on the members of the mariachi bands, which seem to be everywhere. The best of them can be heard at the Tequila Restaurant, which features music seven nights a week. Listening to "La Bamba" and "Guantanamera" may be a good way to feel the soul of Puerto Vallarta, and to wrap up a perfect day in this pocket of romance on the west coast of Mexico.

For help in planning your visit, call 888-384-6822 or go to .net.

Caption: SWELL SPOT: The seaside resort town of Puerto Vallarta, Mexico, offers recreation such as sport fishing and taxis for island hopping.